the lower section of my right trouser leg to shake loose a beetle
making it's way up there. My tent is still quite wet inside from last
nights rain and condensation and I'm resting on top of my inflatable
sleeping mat to keep dry. It's been a long day today with rain pretty
much all day; some of it heavy but for the most part just thoroughly
wetting. I started in Keld this morning, about 20 and something miles
from Horton-in-Ribblesdale where my train left me yesterday morning.
This evening I have arrived in Middleton-in-Teesdale 22 miles further
down the route of the Penine Way.
Yesterday was a much nicer day with only a slight touch of drizzle in
Horton itself. I took another picture of the railway station name sign
as I left to show that I hadn't skipped to the next station down the
line and set off wondering at the change in pace and scenery after the
weekend in London. The path steadily ascended to the top of the moor
and carried me past several interesting places where streams cascaded
into limestone caverns and dissapeared no doubt to reappear somewhere
further down the valley side. In another stream I was amazed to see
crayfish as I looked over the bridge and counted a total of six; how
did they get to a stream at the top of the moor! My early afternoon
break was at Hawes where I refuelled with several cups of tea and a
delicious slice of lemon Meringue pie. Hawes was a bustling tourist
spot with pretty cottages and shops and a nice river ford to cross as
I walked in. From Hawes to Keld was a relatively short hop of about
three hours since I chose to walk the very quiet road over the moor
rather than take the Penine way which looped round on a significantly
longer route. I camped in Keld and enjoyed a great pub meal eaten with
a fellow walker while discussing the merits of various bits of kit and
our experiences on route. The new boots I had bought at the weekend
had performed well on their first day of walking and still felt
reasonably comfortable even at the end of the day!
I left Keld at 7am this morning. The rain had started late evening and
gone on through the night making for a poor nights sleep but at least
I was up early. It rained from the moment I left the tent to when I
arrived at Tan Hill Inn at 9am. I was so pleased to find the doors
open, and putting my head round the doorway was told to come on in and
help myself to tea in the kitchen. They were cooking breakfast for
guests and without too much effort persuaded me to have one too. The
sign above the bar said "I can only be nice to one customer per day
and today is not your day". The same sarcasm was dished up with every
plate coming out of the kitchen but it was only a thin disguise on a
very warm welcome at this "the highest inn in England". I left the inn
with a group of walkers for a nice bit of company but half hour on I
headed off at my own pace again. The moor here was the wettest and
boggiest so far and I was grinning about my lovely new boots and dry
feet. Luckily I also had my gators snugly fastened otherwise the ooze
would have come over the boot top a few times. Little else of note
happened that I noticed through the horrible rain for the next 17
miles! Its good to be back at the challenge again but I won't deny
that some dry weather would be very welcome.
